Tasting Lab: J.M. Blend

I first came across this blend in our Big Black Blend Book, though I didn't know what it was at the time. It was simply titled "J.M. Blend", and since it was catalogued alongside lists of family blends (misfiled at that--not under J or M), I assumed it was a commission for a regular. It wasn't until years later when I was handling a 1960s copy of our product catalogue (pictured right) that I made the connection. We have gaps in are archive of old product catalogues, and over the years regulars have helped us fill them in by donating back their old printouts, or sending photos. Shown right are several editions from our own collection--from the 60s, 80s, and 90s.

J.M. Blend appears from 1960-1969, with the catalogue's description giving no hints on what it stands for (I find that holds for a lot of Murchie's oldest blends); but I think we can take an educated guess. Several generations of John Murchies have been involved with the business, and if not them, then perhaps it was an ode to John Murchie Sr's favourite teas. There's always a good story behind every blend, so I endeavour to highlight them when I come across them.

Having the name and the recipe, I went about recreating this blend. As I've mentioned in my previous Tasting Lab posts, when working with older recipes, there's often a lot of wiggle room. Not only do the recipes often call for a broad category of tea, the tea itself has likely changed style and form since this recipe's inception. Resulting in a number of ways I could interpret this blend. And without a reference sample on-hand, I can't definitively revive the blend exactly how it was, I can only speculate.

To start--this recipe specifies two variations, a Darjeeling variant and an Assam variant. Those familiar with those two teas can imagine how drastically they'd alter the final blend. However, the product guide specifies the Darjeeling variation, so that's the version I decided to go with. One mystery down. The product guide also specifies that no scented teas are included, which easily narrows down my choice of oolongs. It's an important requirement to stipulate, as scented oolongs were not uncommon in blending. Even unscented, they're often used to add a gentle bouquet to the blend.

This still leaves us with some choices: Darjeeling tea differs in taste and aroma between its different flushes. And the style of Darjeelings sold now, doesn't resemble those sold half a century ago! Which flush should we go with, a green and fresh first flush, a sweet and mellow second flush, or seek a bit more pungency with an autumnal flush? We can't make this choice in isolation, either--we have to consider what oolong tea it will be paired with, and how they will mesh with the rosey, sweet Keemuns.

So, I considered the oolongs first. Oolong is an extremely diverse category, and would be the deciding factor for my other choices. They can range from very green to heavily oxidized, very lightly finished to heavily roasted. Historically, I've found the oolongs used in blends skewed more oxidized, complimenting most's preference for black teas, but not always. If I chose something lighter, floral and green, it could compliment the similar fresh notes of the Darjeeling. Likely a first or second flush. If I looked for a heavier roast and deeper oxidation, the pungency likely wouldn't mesh with a fruitier Darjeeling, and I'd likely pick a darker, Autumnal Darjeeling to compliment it better. Bug-bitten oolongs can be extremely fruity, and Oriental Beauty specifically has many characteristics in common with a second flush Darjeeling.

Eventually, I settled on a blend of green Anxi oolongs (a mixture of Hairy Crab, and Jin Kuan Yin, not normally used in blending), lending bright, vegetal flavours with a prominent floral nose and a mineral and slightly buttery aftertaste. With light oxidation and even lighter roast, I decided to pair the oolong with a similarly lighter-bodied, bright and fruity-floral Darjeelings. My final choice was a mixture of first and second flush Darjeeling. First flush Darjeeling is something I've rarely seen in blends--it's a highly prized single-origin tea (our's is from Margaret's Hope), pricey, the very first pluck after a long winter dormancy, and very reminiscent of spring. So I was a bit hesitant, but felt it paired very well with the other teas.

My choice is light, floral, hay-like, grassy and sweet, and I think very 'modern' in style. It's most similar to Symphony Blend--sans the jasmine. Instead I'd describe the florals as chrysanthemum and osmanthus, lightly toasty and a little herbaceous. Its delicateness makes it a little weak to milk, but I think this is a nice tea for savouring, not unlike our Margaret's Hope First Flush. Buttery-sweet oolongs lend a luxurious feel, and the Darjeelings blend the best of both worlds--flowery notes and dried hay, sweet fruit, and nuts, coming together nicely with the toasty, sweet Keemun. It's different. Using very fine teas, and standing out quite a bit from our other blends in the same group. It's classified as a 'green-black' but it's really more an 'oolong-black'. I'd also suggest shortening the steep-time of this tea by a minute or two, and waiting for the water to cool a second off the boil before pouring. And a highly recommend resteeping this tea a second time. The large leaves of the oolong will impart a different character to this second brew.

I wonder about visiting this recipe again in the future, to further explore variations. And to hear what you would have liked to have seen from it--would you have preferred it use Oriental Beauty, maybe paired with just a second flush Darjeeling? Making something very fruity and nutty, with a hint of spice? Or maybe a dark Wuyi oolong, adding roast and mineral notes, paired with a more full-bodied autumnal Darjeeling? A more likely pairing for milk, I'd think. Perhaps a heavily roasted Anxi oolong instead, like the one I used in Bard's Blend, making it stand out much more from the Darjeeling. I'll likely never know how my version stacks up against the original from the 1960s, but I always enjoy reading your thoughts on the matter. And do any other blends from this era of catalogues stand out as potential future Tasting Lab teas?